Monday, August 9, 2010

Close Shaves: It's in the Formulary

For those of you that are sticking to your guns and using a razor to shave (as opposed to the electronic shaver), you may want to consider that you might be using a shaving cream with an inferior formulation, or worse: soap.

Just recently, I was given a bottle (tube) of Anthony Logistics for Men shaving cream from my fiance. Compared to my Edge Gel, this stuff was expensive. After using it once, I could feel why, but that got me to thinking about the formulary; something I do often due to my experience in the personal care industry. First, here are the first four ingredient listed for each of the shaving products:

Anthony Logisitics for Men Shaving Cream:
  1. Stearic acid
  2. Lauric acid
  3. Myristic acid
  4. Palmitic Acid

Edge Shave Gel:

  1. Water
  2. Palmitic acid
  3. Triethanolamine (TEA)
  4. Stearic Acid

The first thing one should note is that water isn't even in the top four ingredients listed for the Anthony product, whereas it is #1 in the Edge product. This equates to the Anthony product having a much higher concentration of fatty acids (lubricants). Therefore, it can effectively create a much more effective barrier with higher slip on your skin. Due to the high water content and TEA inside the Edge product, it foams (lathers) completely when rubbed on the skin. This effectively disperses microscopic air bubbles throughout, thus the would-be barrier actually puts air between your razor and your face, reducing slip. Similarly, the low water content and lack of TEA inside the Anthony product translates to a lather of a much smaller degree. When you rub the Anthony product on your skin, it spreads a thin and silky film of fatty acids without (much) air interdispersed. This effectively allows the razors to glide with nothing more than a nice barrier of silky lubricant between them and your face.

How does this affect closeness and burn? The answer is rather transparent. If a razor can glide freely over your skin, it can cut the hair without perturbing the topology of the skin. It effectively contacts the hair and skin at a constant angle, giving a precise and close shave. If the razor is binding up on your skin, its topology is changing, thus allowing for more fluxuations in distance between your skin, hair, and blade, as well as in the angle at which the blade contacts your hair and skin. Such binding causes irritation as well as increases the distance from your skin at which the blade cuts the hair. Why do you think razor manufacturers put the "aloe strip" on your razor? That strip helps increase slip between the razor cartridge (housing) and your skin, whereas the shaving cream increases slip between your skin and the blades.

I've been using the Anthony product for a month now and I can say from day one, that the shaves are closer and my skin is much less irritated as compared to using the Edge product. The major drawback of the Anthony product is the price. But, considering how great my face feels when I'm done, I can overlook that detail. Buy a tube and give it a try.