Pennzoil Ultra Supplementary Data

This post is in reference to my original post comparing my personal experience with Mobil 1 Extended Performance against Pennzoil Ultra.  Due to my infrequency of oil changes, it has taken a few years to accumulate the data to further substantiate my hypothesis that Pennzoil Ultra outperforms Mobil 1 Extended Performance.  Unfortunately, in the meantime, Pennzoil has reformulated the Ultra brand that I was testing here and so the data has become quite a bit less relevant for new readers.  Nevertheless, science isn't science without supporting data and so I'm writing this as a conclusion to my current study on Mobil 1 Extended Performance vs. Pennzoil Ultra. 

The good news is that this study will in fact continue on as I have switched my oil choice to "Pennzoil Platinum with PurePlus Technology."  As I previously mentioned, Pennzoil did reformulate the Ultra brand which is now called "Ultra Platinum with PurePlus Technology."  I chose not to switch to this oil yet for two main reasons.  First, there is a lot of buzz over the value of the NOACK volatility of 11.5% which is considered by many to be very high.  This was concerning to me because I don't change my oil very often and its long-term stability is of extreme importance.  Second, just like when the original Pennzoil Ultra was released, I couldn't find the stuff anywhere.  After researching the new Pennzoil Platinum formulation and discovering that its base oil too is manufactured using the same gas-to-liquid process of creating synthetic oil from natural gas, I decided to give it a shot. 

Below is my last analysis concluding the current study of Mobil 1 Extended Performance vs. the original Pennzoil Ultra.  For people looking at oil reports for the first time, please read this description from Bob the Oil Guy. One thing to notice is that the analysis on 7/20/2013 doesn't differ appreciably from that of 7/14/2012.  I actually tried quite hard to make the conditions of these two analyses nearly identical except for one thing: I switched from the Mobil 1 M1-110 filter to the K&N HP-1010 filter.  Needless to say, the filter has no measurable affect on the results.  Finally, the last result (11/15/2014) is just more data that looks very similar to the previous analyses of Pennzoil Ultra, in which the K&N filter was again used.  However, one thing to note is that I actually drove a few hundred less miles but the interval actually included 4 more months than the previous analyses.  This shows that the oil is actually stable over time and puts my "how long is too long" worries to rest.

      

Hawk Performance Ceramic and Duralast Carbon Brake Setup Review

Brake Setup:

• Hawk Performance Ceramic Luxury & Touring Compound Pads (Front HB366Z.681, Rear HB145Z.570) ~$160
• Duralast Gold High Carbon Steel Coated Rotors (Front 31275DG, Rear 31315DG) ~$235

Preface:
After a few years of driving on my previous RacingBrake/Duralast setup (see review), I knew the time was approaching when I'd need to do brakes again.  I went into the dealership for obviously unrelated battery issues and they informed me that my rear pads were "getting low."  That, along with subtle pedal vibration at high-speed stopping, was my cue to look for my next brake setup.  The previous setup was good but unless you kept the pads warm, they didn't feel any better than OEM.  The initial bite was almost non-existent and it required some pretty serious pedal pressure to get impressive stop distances.  Aesthetically, the rotors were looking quite drab too.  A few New England winters had all but reduced my hand-painted rotor hats to bright orange and pitted rust. 

The brake job went fairly smoothly and in fact, the RacingBrake ET500 pads had about 85% life left on the fronts.  The rears were, as Acura put it, "getting pretty low."  This is likely an indication of the brake balancing technology for stability and traction control acting a bit aggressively.  Oh well, safety first! 

Review:
First, I want to comment on the coated rotors.  They are black.  However, this is just the coating.  Yes, they do claim to be manufactured using a high carbon content steel; however, this black color is not the steel, it is a coating.  What's nice about the coating though is that it is only removed from the rotor surface that the pads actually contact.  Some painted rotors only have the paint/coating on the rotor hat and therefore leave a small area of the rotor surface (where the pad doesn't contact) exposed...ready to rust.  Another nice thing about these rotors is that they have a 3yr warranty!  Sorry, a 3 YEAR WARRANTY!  That's unheard of.  If these things let you down in 3 years, take them back and you get new ones.  This is incredible for a wear item on a car.  How could I not give them a shot?  A note to potential buyers, they do cost quite a bit more than the regular Duralast rotors I used in my last setup.  In fact, the fronts cost about 67% more and the rears cost a whopping 110% more!  My logic is to always spend a little extra on safety parts and since these parts have the potential to last a very long time, I felt this "splurge" to be justified.  One more note, the coating on the rear rotors did get in the way of a smooth installation.  Slight imperfections in the thickness of the coating on the inside surface of the rotor hat caused clearance issues with the rear hub.  Some slight persuasion was required here to get the rotors to sit flush.  I simply put the wheel on and slowly tightened the lug nuts in the usual star pattern and on they went.  I was a bit disappointed in this fit because it surely means extra work when I replace them.

Now, on to the pads.  Unlike the ET500s, these pads come with the proper caliper lube and shims (at least for the rear).  In fact, my TSX developed a really weird and loud clunking noise that was reproducible when parking and any other low-speed turning scenarios.  I traced down the clunk to the brakes.  In fact it was a sloppy fitment between the RacingBrake pads and the caliper.  After putting in the Hawk pads, 100% of the clunking noise vanished.

How about performance?  Well, the new setup is night and day versus the old setup.  Initial bite is amazing.  You do still notice a difference between cold performance and warm performance but the difference is more subtle.  Besides the great initial bite, they require FAR LESS pedal pressure to stop in normal scenarios and inspire major confidence when high-speed stopping and emergency stopping are required.  I'm not sure how much of a role the rotors are playing in this but I'm sure they are contributing especially during high-speed and emergency scenarios where very high temperatures are generated.  Overall, I'm extremely impressed with this new setup and I fully recommend it.  It's worth every penny.

The Results Are In: Mobil 1 Extended Perf. v. Pennzoil Ultra

Between planning a wedding, getting married, trying to finish up my PhD and find a job, life has been insanely hectic.  Hence, I have been almost entirely MIA since over a year ago.  However, in that time, I have been able to stay active with the car hobby and even begin autocrossing.  That's enough catch-up, now on to the main point of this post.

When we first purchased the TSX, I immediately did an oil change with Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w-30 and the Mobil 1 M1-110 oil filter.  About 3000 miles later, I did another oil change with the same materials.  I realize that the service interval is 10,000 miles/1 year but I had no idea about the condition of the engine internals and wanted to rest easier knowing there was clean oil in there.  Around this time (Dec. 2010) I began seeing commercials for Pennzoil Ultra.  The commercials showed visual comparisons with Mobil 1 and always played up the "only motor oil exclusively recommended by Ferrari North America".  Their marketing was flawless and so I decided that the next oil change would be with Pennzoil Ultra.

Being the scientist that I am, I wanted to gather some empirical data of my own to verify Pennzoil's claim.  After running the Mobil 1 for 3,050 miles, I decided to do the oil change and send the used Mobil 1 off for analysis.  Analysis came back and everything looked good, including the recommendation to put more miles on each oil change.  So, the oil was changed with Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30 and I used the same Mobil 1 M1-110 oil filter.  However, I did not have the exact same driving conditions as with the Mobil 1.  First, I took the recommendation and decided to put exactly one year on the oil change, which ended up being 5,562 miles.  Furthermore, as mentioned above, I began autocross racing.  Therefore, the engine was abused A LOT more.  I sent the used Pennzoil Ultra off for analysis and the results are in.  You can take a look for yourself.

 Needless to say, I am quite impressed.  Of course, to validate the results many more data points must be taken but considering each data point takes one year to obtain, this is enough proof for me now.

How-To: '08 TL Type-S Rear Swaybar on '04-'08 TSX

One of the "best bang for your buck" suspension mods you can do is to upgrade the stock 15mm rear swaybar (RSB) to something thicker. Almost everyone that has upgraded their RSB has said that it was their favorite upgrade. The reason being that it doesn't change the ride quality but SIGNIFICANTLY reduces chassis roll while turning, increases stability by keeping the tires planted, and ultimately making for a much more fun driving experience. There are two very popular RSBs out there; one from Progressive Auto Group and one from Comptech, both of which are 22mm solid bars. There are a few others but these are the most popular. However, if you're like me, you prefer the idea of upgrading your machine with factory parts. After finding out the TL Type-S (TLS) has a 20mm solid RSB, and realizing that the suspensions on the TL, Accord, and TSX are VERY similar, I decided the TLS RSB would be my perfect upgrade. The install went very smooth and I couldn't be happier with the performance. Here's how I did it.

Parts:

• 1x '08 TLS RSB p/n 52300-SEP-A11 $34
• 2x '08 TLS RSB Bushings p/n 52306-SEP-A11 $1.14
• 2x '08 TLS RSB Bushing Holder p/n 52308-S3M-A00 $0.85
• 4x '08 TLS RSB Bushing Holder Bolt p/n 93402-08016-08 $0.68
• 2x Self-locking nut (endlink-RSB nut) p/n 90212-SA5-003 $0.38

It is probably a good idea to replace the swaybar endlinks while you're in there. If you have an '04 or '05 TSX, the original endlinks have been preceded by a thicker design. The updated p/n 06523-S84-A00 is for both (L/R) endlinks and two self-locking nuts. If you're not replacing the endlinks, not recommended, you must still replace the self-locking nuts.

Tools Required:

• 5mm allen wrench
• 14mm socket
• 14mm open-ended wrench
• 12mm socket
• 8" extension
• Socket wrench
• Breaker bar
• Hammer or mallet
• Vice grips

Difficulty: Medium

Installation:

1. First thing first. You will need to jack up the car and you will be working underneath it. BE SAFE and support the car with jack stands! Once the car is up on stands and the wheels are off, start removing the RSB.
2. If you're replacing the endlinks, which I recommend, disconnect the endlinks from the rear knuckles. If you're not replacing the endlinks, disconnect the endlinks from the RSB. Spray the threads with some WD40 and let it sit for a few minutes. Then, using the 14mm socket and breaker bar, break the endlink nut free. Once it spins, remove the breaker bar and put your 14mm wrench on the nut. Insert the allen wrench into the endlink pin to hold the joint and remove the nut. If the inside of the pin strips out, you can hold the pin with vice grips from the back side of the bracket.
   
   
3. Using the 12mm socket on the extension, remove the RSB bushing brackets and fish the RSB out from under the car.
   
4. Lubricate the inside of the new RSB bushings and put them on the bar. The new bar is shaped a bit different than the OEM bar so here comes the real info. The new bar will mount to the car with the bar dipping towards the ground. If the "dip" section is facing up, you have to flip the bar over. Now, using the new RSB brackets, mount the bar to the chassis. In the center of the car, there is an exhaust hanger that is used on single-sided exhaust Accords in Japan and Europe. This hanger will, just barely, interfere with the new RSB so it must be bent. Attach the vice grips to the hanger and pry such that the hanger gets bent down. You only need to bend it about 5-10mm for the bar to clear. If you think you bent it enough, swing the RSB up and check for interference. This picture is of the bar in a "relaxed" position not attached to the endlinks.
   
   This picture is of the RSB swung fully forward in a fully "compressed" situation. You can see that it does not interfere and has just a few mm of clearance.
   
5. Now, if you are replacing the endlinks, attach them to the knuckle. If you have an '04-'05 and are using the updated links, the link with the red mark goes on the left (driver's side) and blue goes on the right. Else, the link with the white mark goes on the left and the yellow mark goes on the right. Now, attach the RSB to the endlinks and tighten the new self-locking nuts slightly. Place a jack under the knuckle and jack it up until the cars weight compresses the suspension. Torque all of the nuts.
6. Put the wheels on and let the car down. Drive around for five minutes and let everything settle properly. Then, jack up the car and re-torque everything.

Updated endlinks for the '04-'05. They are much thicker.

The bushing for the stock bar (15mm) compared to the TLS bar (20mm)


The stock bar compared to the TLS bar.

Winter Tires

A few months back I wrote about wheel and tire sizes, specifically sizing for a winter setup. I sourced a set of '05 Accord EX V6 (16") wheels for use as my winter wheels and verified they fit the TSX without issue. I then replaced the "H" emblem center cap with the appropriate "A" to stay consistent with Acura's badging and just recently mounted a brand new set of Bridgestone Blizzak WS70 winter tires sized at 205/60-16. I haven't gotten to drive in any snow yet so I will wait to write a full review. But as for dry pavement driving, these tires perform about as expected. In comparison to my 225/45-17 ultra high performance all-season tires, the Blizzaks are very "sloppy" and slow to respond. This is due to the combination of soft "spongy" winter compound and increased sidewall length. I was VERY impressed with their low noise characteristic. On the freeway at 80+MPH, the road noise was comparable to my all-season tires, which are very quiet. At a stoplight, I decided to try a hard launch. VSA was noticeably active throughout first gear and at the top of second. This wasn't terribly surprising considering these were not formulated for high torque and temperature scenarios.

In heavy rain, I felt no hydroplaning or understeer. However, in an emergency stop scenario, ABS was activated. This is likely due to the fact that winter tread patterns are designed for snow and ice traction and not water expulsion. This experience left me praising my all-season's since ABS has NEVER kicked in with them.

Close Shaves: It's in the Formulary

For those of you that are sticking to your guns and using a razor to shave (as opposed to the electronic shaver), you may want to consider that you might be using a shaving cream with an inferior formulation, or worse: soap.

Just recently, I was given a bottle (tube) of Anthony Logistics for Men shaving cream from my fiance. Compared to my Edge Gel, this stuff was expensive. After using it once, I could feel why, but that got me to thinking about the formulary; something I do often due to my experience in the personal care industry. First, here are the first four ingredient listed for each of the shaving products:

Anthony Logisitics for Men Shaving Cream:

1. Stearic acid
2. Lauric acid
3. Myristic acid
4. Palmitic Acid

Edge Shave Gel:

1. Water
2. Palmitic acid
3. Triethanolamine (TEA)
4. Stearic Acid

The first thing one should note is that water isn't even in the top four ingredients listed for the Anthony product, whereas it is #1 in the Edge product. This equates to the Anthony product having a much higher concentration of fatty acids (lubricants). Therefore, it can effectively create a much more effective barrier with higher slip on your skin. Due to the high water content and TEA inside the Edge product, it foams (lathers) completely when rubbed on the skin. This effectively disperses microscopic air bubbles throughout, thus the would-be barrier actually puts air between your razor and your face, reducing slip. Similarly, the low water content and lack of TEA inside the Anthony product translates to a lather of a much smaller degree. When you rub the Anthony product on your skin, it spreads a thin and silky film of fatty acids without (much) air interdispersed. This effectively allows the razors to glide with nothing more than a nice barrier of silky lubricant between them and your face.

How does this affect closeness and burn? The answer is rather transparent. If a razor can glide freely over your skin, it can cut the hair without perturbing the topology of the skin. It effectively contacts the hair and skin at a constant angle, giving a precise and close shave. If the razor is binding up on your skin, its topology is changing, thus allowing for more fluxuations in distance between your skin, hair, and blade, as well as in the angle at which the blade contacts your hair and skin. Such binding causes irritation as well as increases the distance from your skin at which the blade cuts the hair. Why do you think razor manufacturers put the "aloe strip" on your razor? That strip helps increase slip between the razor cartridge (housing) and your skin, whereas the shaving cream increases slip between your skin and the blades.

I've been using the Anthony product for a month now and I can say from day one, that the shaves are closer and my skin is much less irritated as compared to using the Edge product. The major drawback of the Anthony product is the price. But, considering how great my face feels when I'm done, I can overlook that detail. Buy a tube and give it a try.

Racingbrake and Duralast Brake Setup Review

Brake Setup:

• RacingBrake ET500 brake pads (4 corners) ~$164
• RacingBrake stainless-steel brake lines (4 corners)~$110
• Duralast front rotors ~$100
• Rotora slotted rear rotors ~$100

Preface:

If you've read my post below regarding Rotora, you'd know that they produce low-quality parts with a poor warranty. The reason I am running Rotora rear rotors is due to the fact that I had so much trouble getting a refund for the defective front set, I was forced to keep the rear set and reduce my out-of-pocket expenses. Due to the amazing 2-year/unlimited mileage full-replacement warranty on the Duralast rotors, they were a no-brainer.

Review:

I have been using this setup now for over 1K miles so everything is broken-in, and I've had the opportunity to test the setup in many different conditions and scenarios. Also, I installed the stainless-steel lines about 500 miles after I installed the pads/rotors, so I was able to fully distinguish their contribution.

First, I will review the pad/rotor setup. Initial braking response was very poor. After proper bed-in, response was much better. However, it wasn't until the rotors were fully broken-in before the setup really came to life. Cold braking is very similar to OEM. After about 2-3 stoplights, braking response is drastically improved. High-speed braking is where this setup really shines. Exiting the freeway (85mph->30), there is NO fade and a linear increase in braking power is exhibited as the pads and rotors heat up. Even in extreme 80mph->0 traffic situations, I have yet to experience ANY brake fade. Similarly, no brake fade is exhibited while driving twisty up- and downhill mountain roads. As for noise, I have yet to hear any squealing whatsoever. Similarly, dust is not much of an issue, which is strange considering how aggressive these pads are. They are not as aggressive as Axxis ULTs but they don't chew rotors up nearly as much or dust nearly as much.

Upgrading the OEM rubber brake lines to stainless-steel is a must for any driving enthusiast. I didn't think they'd make as much of a difference as they did; I was very impressed. The install is messy and bleeding the lines can be a bit of a hassle, but if you're committed, you can get the install done and wheels on in a few hours. The stainless lines really firmed the pedal significantly and made braking effort much more predictable, especially during heavy braking scenarios.

I would recommend RacingBrake stainless-steel lines from Heeltoe Auto for a few reasons. First, they are very cost effective for a full set. Second, Heeltoe works directly with RacingBrake and offers unprecedented customer service. Needless to say, if you have any issues with your products, which you won't, Marcus at Heeltoe will personally take responsibility and fix it.

Overall Impression:

This setup cost me a grand total of ~$474 and it was worth every penny. Consistent and predictable braking effort, ZERO fade, low dust, no noise. Besides going with a BBK, this is probably one of the best brake upgrades for the TSX.

Not Really Engineering Related: DIY Iced Coffee

As the title suggests, this isn't really engineering related, unless of course you plan to scale this up to full production. Nonetheless, if you like or love iced coffee, but hate paying >$4 at your coffee shop for an oversweetened glass, you need this DIY. I originally acquired this recipe from GQ in Summer '09 so I can't take all the credit but I perfected it after making many batches.

Initial Impression: Easy enough, nothing can go wrong!

Tools Required: 32oz. (unbreakable) French Press, coffee scoop, butter knife, coarse ground coffee.

Difficulty: Very Easy

1. Put ~14 scoops of coffee into French Press. I use whole bean Dark Espresso and grind it coarse. I use the unbreakable French Press by Bonjour because the glass ones seem to break way too easy and are expensive to replace.
2. Fill the Press with cold (filtered) water and stir with the butter knife to wet all the grounds.
3. Place the French Press lid but don't press the plunger.
4. Let stand at room temperature for at least 12 hours. To assist with the diffusion (solid-liquid extraction) process, it is good to stir the mixture every hour for the first 3 hours. When the coffee gets saturated with water, it will begin to sink. The longer you leave it brew, the stronger the product will be. I usually shoot for about 12-18 hours.
5. Press the plunger, and pour the coffee into a pitcher. Mix it 1:1 with cold (filtered) water and place the pitcher in the fridge.
6. Serve with ice and (soy or almond) milk. You can sweeten it too if you desire but I can't stand sweet iced coffee.

Tire Sizes

Every day there are questions regarding what different tire sizes are safe to run. The rule of thumb for the TSX is that the VSA and ABS will not be affected if the new tire size is within +/-2% of the stock circumference. This can be confusing for those that aren't math savvy so I put together a simple spreadsheet to do the calculations. The stock size is 215/50-17 but since this is a spreadsheet, it is not TSX specific and therefore you can use it for whatever car you have by changing the stock size cells. What the spreadsheet won't tell you is whether or not the tire size you wish to run on your wheels will actually work. For instance, the '04-'08 TSX factory wheels are 7" wide. The maximum tire width you can run is 225mm and even then, they may be very difficult to seat. After I bought my TSX, I decided I wanted a slightly wider and lower profile tire so I went with a 225/45-17. The circumference is 1.9% smaller than stock. A better match would be a 235/45-17 but 235mm is too wide for the stock 7" wheel. Get my point?

I found this spreadsheet to be particularly useful when sizing up/down wheels for summer/winter specific tires. For instance, a winter tire is best on a 16" wheel, so what size tire do I need to buy? Consult the spreadsheet!

The spreadsheet can be downloaded here.

Update: I picked up a set of 2005 Accord V6 Sedan (16") wheels for a great price. I tossed some Acura center caps on them and they look great. They're going to be a perfect winter setup. I threw them on the front and verified that they clear the brakes etc. It's pretty tight but they fit and will work on the TSX with no issues.

Rotora: Why to NEVER buy.

Buying a product that meets your expectations is enough for some people to give a company a good review. The fact of the matter is, when you buy a product that "works" out-of-the box, you never actually get to deal with the manufacturer. Recently, I purchased a set of front and rear slotted rotors for my '05 TSX. My experience has opened my eyes, not only to an inferior product, but also to a backwards management style that ensures failure.

Upon receipt of the rotors, they were visually flawless. I took note of their short warranty (2wk/500mile) and was immediately questioning the quality of the product. Installation went smoothly; the rotors met OE design specifications exactly. I didn't even make it down the driveway before I noticed MAJOR pedal pulsation. Pressing the brake pedal while at speeds of 50mph or higher resulted in violent steering shudders and surging. After thorough inspection, I determined that BOTH the front rotors were out of spec. The rears were flawless.

The distributor (Excelerate Performance) told me I would have to submit a warranty claim with Rotora. In another blog entry, I will address this issue. I was immediately displeased with Rotora's (lack of) customer service. An hour and a half after they were supposed to be open, a customer service rep finally answers the phone. After explaining the situation, his response was "our rotors leave the facility flawless, you installed them improperly." After articulating to the rep why he was incorrect, his next response was "it must be your hubs, try replacing those." Being a (PhD candidate) engineer, I called him out on his lack of knowledge. His final response was to call back later when a tech would be in, but he wasn't sure when that was.

I finally got a hold of a tech and he seemed much more helpful. I suggested he ship me a new front set and I'd send the defective ones back. A day later I get a response "management wants to verify they are defective before they send out any product." Now, this I can understand when they are standing to lose thousands over a false warranty claim for a BBK but for $200 rotors? After a week of arguing, they agreed to charge my credit card for the product and refund me once they receive mine. I responded telling them to invoice me (for legal reasons). Three days passed and no invoice was received. I received a call saying that they were no longer going to work this matter out and no matter what, I needed to send the defective product to them for their verification.

I ended up buying new Duralast rotors from Autozone for less than half the price and a 2yr unlimited mile full replacement warranty. After installing these, I haven't had the slightest hint of surging, pulsation, or vibration. These rotors are smooth as butter. I submitted a chargeback claim to my CC and will receive my money back shortly.

In short, Rotora is so arrogant that they are unwilling to accept that their product is susceptible to manufacturing defects. They put 100% of the cost and blame back on the customer and are unwilling to honor their otherwise vague "warranty". I have heard other stories of the exact same problem and after others' sent their rotors in, Rotora claimed they were in spec and wouldn't send out new parts. The practice of putting all fault on the customer will bring your company to its knees, once the public becomes informed of your practices. They are willing to kill their relationship with a customer over a few hundred dollars. In my opinion, they are a total scam and should be completely avoided. If their products were truly superior, they would have a warranty that reflects that belief.

Save your money, NEVER BUY ROTORA.

http://tsx.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=769701

'04-'08 TSX Useful Maintenance Info

• Brake Fluid: Honda/Acura DOT3 p/n 08798-9008A
• Manual Transmission Fluid: Honda/Acura p/n 08798-9031A (2.1qt)
• Engine Oil: Mobil1 Extended Performance Synthetic 5w-30 (~4.6qt w/filter change)
• Oil Filter: Mobil1 M1-110 or Honda/Acura p/n 15400-PLM-A02
• Oil drain plug washer: 94109-14000
• Door Seal, Sunroof, RSB rubber grease: Shin-Etsu silicone grease p/n 08798-9013
• Brake slider grease: Honda silicone grease 08C30-B0234M (acura service substitutes super hi temp urea grease p/n 08798-9002)
• Mainshaft splines and clutch pivots: Honda super hi temp urea grease p/n 08798-9002)
• Pollen filter: Acura p/n 80292-SEC-A01 or Bosch particulate cabin filter p/n P3875
• Air filter: '04-'05 Acura p/n 17220-RAA-A00, '06-'08 Acura p/n 17220-RBB-A00

'04-'08 TSX Mugen Short Shifter How-To

The Mugen Short Shifter is great for anybody wanting a shorter more precise gear change with excellent feedback. In my opinion, it also moves the shift knob to the appropriate height for your hand when relaxing on the armrest, taking pressure off your elbow. The full assembly was purchased from King Motorsports (the ONLY authorized Mugen retailer in the US) for $270. It was in stock so I had it in-hand only 3 days after purchasing. The side-by-side comparison picture is helpful. First, you can see that the Mugen shifter has about 1" shorter top shaft length. Second, the linkage lever on the side is slightly longer and has a beefier spring on it. Lastly, you can see the mounts are solid instead of rubber.

Initial impression: Extremely high quality part that exhibits attention to detail. They even included a new linkage shim and cotter pin. No need to go to Honda to replace these gnarled parts.

Tools required: Channel-lock pliers, needle-nose pliers, flat-head screwdriver, #1 phillips screwdriver, 3/8” driver, 6” extension, 10mm socket

Difficulty: Hard

Installation:

1. Remove the console. This can be rather difficult since it is held in by clips. Starting at the back of the console by the e-brake and working your way forward works well. If you move the leather e-brake hole cover aside, you can see the bottom of the first clip. Using a flat head screwdriver, you can press the clip up while pulling up on the console. A quick bursting pull released both of the rear clips for me. Carefully work your way forward prying along the sides. Each side has two clips and the front has two clips totaling 8. Once all the clips are up and the console is loose, unplug the seat-heater switches and remove the shift-knob. The console is totally detached and should be set aside taking care not to scratch it.
   
   
   

2. Remove the cubby, as seen in my how-to regarding the iPod integration kit, and set it aside. This exposes the self-tapping screws to remove the “not an ashtray” coin cubby. Remove the screws and the coin cubby and set it aside. You don’t need to remove the amplifier but I took the screws out and pushed the amp aside to give me more room to work on the shift linkage.
   
   
   
   

3. Remove the shift linkage. The linkage on the side is attached to the lever via a cotter pin. Remove the cotter pin and the linkage cable. Hang on to the washer and note its orientation as it has a low-friction coating on one side. Detaching the linkage from the assembly is simple. The big black retaining unit at the front requires a ¼ twist counter-clockwise to release it from the assembly. I found a small crescent wrench helped out a lot to rotate the linkage since it is very tight for hands. The other linkage cable is attached to the actual gear lever underneath the assembly. There are access holes to fit your hands to detach it. It is only secured by a small spring-loaded wire. Carefully pry open the wire ends (facing the rear of the car) and the cable should drop right off the lever. Detaching the linkage from the assembly is quite possibly the hardest part. The spring shim just needs to be pulled straight up and the linkage is detached. This shim is on there TIGHT. This is where I used the channel-lock pliers. After pulling for about 20 minutes it came off. I have no pointers for you other than to pull and wiggle until it pops off.
   
   
   
   

4. Remove the four mounting bolts that hold the assembly in place. The assembly should now be free to move except for the wire harnesses that are attached to it. Be careful with these harnesses. The one with yellow tape has to do with the SRS. You can release the wire-stays from the assembly by pinching them from underneath the shifter assembly. This is a major pain and will cut your hands up if you’re not careful.
   
   
   
   

5. Remove the assembly. This thing fits in there so perfectly, it is nearly impossible to remove it without removing the entire center console sides. I managed to twist it just right and pull on it until it popped out. Be cautious to avoid destroying the console plastic.
   
   

6. Install the Mugen assembly in reverse order. The install is MUCH faster than taking the stock assembly out. Test that everything is operational before you put it all back together. Voila!

This install is not for anyone new to tearing apart cars or anyone expecting a smooth 1 hour install. This took me around 2-3 hours start to finish, knowing exactly what I was doing. It was TOTALLY worth it though. This is a solid upgrade that makes me grin every time I need to shift (which is often for a 6MT in Boston).

Review of Dice i-Honda R3/R4

I have had the Dice i-Honda installed for a few days now so a review is due. Here's a quick overview:

Likes:

• Easy install
• Many features/functionalities
• Easy to use
• Hybridizes iPod control and stereo control
• Amazing sound

Dislikes:

• Price
• Heavy dock cable

Now, let's elaborate. If you read my install how-to, it is clear why I enjoyed the easy install. Immediately after installation, the device worked exactly as expected. You simply change the stereo function to CD changer (or XM depending on how you set it up) and press Disc1. The music begins playing and you can use the controls on the steering wheel or stereo to change track, volume, and sound settings. This is awesome for shuffling because you don't have to physically skip songs using the iPod controls. Of course, in this setting you retain full iPod control which is far more intuitive than navigating your iPod using the stereo controls, which this device also supports. Lastly, I couldn't believe how incredible the iPod sounds. Even comparing to CDs, there is no discernible difference in quality. Anybody still using FM transmitters needs to get updated ASAP.

The list of dislikes is rather short, which was expected after reading reviews before purchasing. First, the price tag on this device may be a bit high. If you buy directly from Dice, the R4 kit will run you $190. Of course, you can find retailers on Ebay who offer this kit for around $150. I feel like this is high because you are basically paying for the vehicle specific wire harness to attach it to your specific application. The actual device is rather generic so its manufacturing/development costs should be relatively low. Similarly, if you wish to retain XM and/or Navi, you need the R4 harness which has a female side to allow for device bypass. This costs an additional $20 over the R3. Again, what seems like a low-cost variation to the original harness gets packaged as a premium feature or must-have for those with XM and/or Navi. The other thing that I personally don't like is how heavy the iPod cable is. It is relatively thick and can be bothersome to maneuver, especially when the iPod is not attached. If Dice had used a cable that was more similar to the Apple dock cable, I feel like maneuvering would become a non-issue. I had an AUX input on my last Accord and the 3.5mm cable was so easy to maneuver I never thought twice about it. This may not be a problem if I didn't want to use the iPod controls however. In that case, you plug your iPod in and put it away in your glove box or storage compartment. If you are like me, you enjoy changing albums frequently while driving. Thus, a smaller, more maneuverable cable, would benefit this product.

Overall, this is a must-have product for music/car lovers. I am not sure how it compares to the cheaper integration kits from other manufacturers though. But in my experience with electronics, you get what you pay for. Cheers.

2005 TSX iPod Integration How-To

If you own a 2004-2005 TSX, you are aware that the auxiliary input wasn't added until '06. That's fine, because there's a better solution to listening to your iPod/iPone than an AUX port that can't even charge it. After reading many reviews, I decided on the Dice Electronics i-Honda-R4. If you have an '04 model without Navi, you can save the $20 and get the R3. The only difference is that the R4 has the ability to retain XM/Navi, which is originally plugged into the device port on the stereo. The install is insanely simple and takes about 5 minutes. Of course, read the Dice manual and set up the device prior to installation time. This will help ensure a speedy install.

Tools Required: None

Difficulty: Easy

Installation How-to:

1. Place both hands in the upper storage bin and press firmly on the inner-sidewalls pulling out and up. The bin should pop right out.
   


2. Carefully put your hand inside the opening and feel the bottom of the stereo. There is only one plug and it is very accessible.
   
   
3. There is a small locking lever facing towards you. Carefully unplug the connector.
   


4. Plug the connector into the female end of the Dice harness and plug the male end of the Dice harness into the stereo.
   


5. Connect everything to the Dice device and neatly tuck it away. Verify that everything is working the way it should.
   
   
6. Determine where you want the iPod cable to run. I chose to run it through the passenger side of the center console. Of course, it can go pretty much anywhere considering the length of cable they give you.
   
   


7. Put the storage bin back in, make sure it snaps securely in place. That's it!
   
   
   UPDATE: After using this for a few months, I decided I wanted a cleaner look to the install. That is, I wanted the iPod cable to be out of sight. So, I popped the center console out (see Mugen SS install instructions) and ran the iPod cable to the left of the shifter mechanism following the yellow wire (see Mugen SS photos) and securing it with wire ties. Inside the console cubby (armrest) there is a 12V DC socket. If you lift up the rubber pad on the bottom of the cubby, you expose a single philips screw. Remove the screw and unplug the 12V socket and remove the socket and plastic housing. Just below the socket on the left edge of the housing, I drilled a hole large enough to pass the iPod cable through. I then clipped the iPod cable into the hooks on the underside of the armrest and ran the cable up through the hole to the top shelf, where I like to set my iPod. Since the cubby is designed so well, you can close it while the cable is out, making changing songs by hand simple. When done changing songs, I place it back in the cubby. Super clean and out of sight!
   
   
   
   
   
   

About My Blog

Many of us have spent countless hours parsing the internet for obscure information regarding "how-to" fix this or modify that, or simply what product(s) others prefer. This blog is aimed to be a small archive of potentially useful knowledge that I have acquired over the years, regarding everyday things like cars and fashion. I will mostly post reviews and how-to's as they become available.