'04-'08 TSX Useful Maintenance Info

• Brake Fluid: Honda/Acura DOT3 p/n 08798-9008A
• Manual Transmission Fluid: Honda/Acura p/n 08798-9031A (2.1qt)
• Engine Oil: Mobil1 Extended Performance Synthetic 5w-30 (~4.6qt w/filter change)
• Oil Filter: Mobil1 M1-110 or Honda/Acura p/n 15400-PLM-A02
• Oil drain plug washer: 94109-14000
• Door Seal, Sunroof, RSB rubber grease: Shin-Etsu silicone grease p/n 08798-9013
• Brake slider grease: Honda silicone grease 08C30-B0234M (acura service substitutes super hi temp urea grease p/n 08798-9002)
• Mainshaft splines and clutch pivots: Honda super hi temp urea grease p/n 08798-9002)
• Pollen filter: Acura p/n 80292-SEC-A01 or Bosch particulate cabin filter p/n P3875
• Air filter: '04-'05 Acura p/n 17220-RAA-A00, '06-'08 Acura p/n 17220-RBB-A00

'04-'08 TSX Mugen Short Shifter How-To

The Mugen Short Shifter is great for anybody wanting a shorter more precise gear change with excellent feedback. In my opinion, it also moves the shift knob to the appropriate height for your hand when relaxing on the armrest, taking pressure off your elbow. The full assembly was purchased from King Motorsports (the ONLY authorized Mugen retailer in the US) for $270. It was in stock so I had it in-hand only 3 days after purchasing. The side-by-side comparison picture is helpful. First, you can see that the Mugen shifter has about 1" shorter top shaft length. Second, the linkage lever on the side is slightly longer and has a beefier spring on it. Lastly, you can see the mounts are solid instead of rubber.

Initial impression: Extremely high quality part that exhibits attention to detail. They even included a new linkage shim and cotter pin. No need to go to Honda to replace these gnarled parts.

Tools required: Channel-lock pliers, needle-nose pliers, flat-head screwdriver, #1 phillips screwdriver, 3/8” driver, 6” extension, 10mm socket

Difficulty: Hard

Installation:

1. Remove the console. This can be rather difficult since it is held in by clips. Starting at the back of the console by the e-brake and working your way forward works well. If you move the leather e-brake hole cover aside, you can see the bottom of the first clip. Using a flat head screwdriver, you can press the clip up while pulling up on the console. A quick bursting pull released both of the rear clips for me. Carefully work your way forward prying along the sides. Each side has two clips and the front has two clips totaling 8. Once all the clips are up and the console is loose, unplug the seat-heater switches and remove the shift-knob. The console is totally detached and should be set aside taking care not to scratch it.
   
   
   

2. Remove the cubby, as seen in my how-to regarding the iPod integration kit, and set it aside. This exposes the self-tapping screws to remove the “not an ashtray” coin cubby. Remove the screws and the coin cubby and set it aside. You don’t need to remove the amplifier but I took the screws out and pushed the amp aside to give me more room to work on the shift linkage.
   
   
   
   

3. Remove the shift linkage. The linkage on the side is attached to the lever via a cotter pin. Remove the cotter pin and the linkage cable. Hang on to the washer and note its orientation as it has a low-friction coating on one side. Detaching the linkage from the assembly is simple. The big black retaining unit at the front requires a ¼ twist counter-clockwise to release it from the assembly. I found a small crescent wrench helped out a lot to rotate the linkage since it is very tight for hands. The other linkage cable is attached to the actual gear lever underneath the assembly. There are access holes to fit your hands to detach it. It is only secured by a small spring-loaded wire. Carefully pry open the wire ends (facing the rear of the car) and the cable should drop right off the lever. Detaching the linkage from the assembly is quite possibly the hardest part. The spring shim just needs to be pulled straight up and the linkage is detached. This shim is on there TIGHT. This is where I used the channel-lock pliers. After pulling for about 20 minutes it came off. I have no pointers for you other than to pull and wiggle until it pops off.
   
   
   
   

4. Remove the four mounting bolts that hold the assembly in place. The assembly should now be free to move except for the wire harnesses that are attached to it. Be careful with these harnesses. The one with yellow tape has to do with the SRS. You can release the wire-stays from the assembly by pinching them from underneath the shifter assembly. This is a major pain and will cut your hands up if you’re not careful.
   
   
   
   

5. Remove the assembly. This thing fits in there so perfectly, it is nearly impossible to remove it without removing the entire center console sides. I managed to twist it just right and pull on it until it popped out. Be cautious to avoid destroying the console plastic.
   
   

6. Install the Mugen assembly in reverse order. The install is MUCH faster than taking the stock assembly out. Test that everything is operational before you put it all back together. Voila!

This install is not for anyone new to tearing apart cars or anyone expecting a smooth 1 hour install. This took me around 2-3 hours start to finish, knowing exactly what I was doing. It was TOTALLY worth it though. This is a solid upgrade that makes me grin every time I need to shift (which is often for a 6MT in Boston).

Review of Dice i-Honda R3/R4

I have had the Dice i-Honda installed for a few days now so a review is due. Here's a quick overview:

Likes:

• Easy install
• Many features/functionalities
• Easy to use
• Hybridizes iPod control and stereo control
• Amazing sound

Dislikes:

• Price
• Heavy dock cable

Now, let's elaborate. If you read my install how-to, it is clear why I enjoyed the easy install. Immediately after installation, the device worked exactly as expected. You simply change the stereo function to CD changer (or XM depending on how you set it up) and press Disc1. The music begins playing and you can use the controls on the steering wheel or stereo to change track, volume, and sound settings. This is awesome for shuffling because you don't have to physically skip songs using the iPod controls. Of course, in this setting you retain full iPod control which is far more intuitive than navigating your iPod using the stereo controls, which this device also supports. Lastly, I couldn't believe how incredible the iPod sounds. Even comparing to CDs, there is no discernible difference in quality. Anybody still using FM transmitters needs to get updated ASAP.

The list of dislikes is rather short, which was expected after reading reviews before purchasing. First, the price tag on this device may be a bit high. If you buy directly from Dice, the R4 kit will run you $190. Of course, you can find retailers on Ebay who offer this kit for around $150. I feel like this is high because you are basically paying for the vehicle specific wire harness to attach it to your specific application. The actual device is rather generic so its manufacturing/development costs should be relatively low. Similarly, if you wish to retain XM and/or Navi, you need the R4 harness which has a female side to allow for device bypass. This costs an additional $20 over the R3. Again, what seems like a low-cost variation to the original harness gets packaged as a premium feature or must-have for those with XM and/or Navi. The other thing that I personally don't like is how heavy the iPod cable is. It is relatively thick and can be bothersome to maneuver, especially when the iPod is not attached. If Dice had used a cable that was more similar to the Apple dock cable, I feel like maneuvering would become a non-issue. I had an AUX input on my last Accord and the 3.5mm cable was so easy to maneuver I never thought twice about it. This may not be a problem if I didn't want to use the iPod controls however. In that case, you plug your iPod in and put it away in your glove box or storage compartment. If you are like me, you enjoy changing albums frequently while driving. Thus, a smaller, more maneuverable cable, would benefit this product.

Overall, this is a must-have product for music/car lovers. I am not sure how it compares to the cheaper integration kits from other manufacturers though. But in my experience with electronics, you get what you pay for. Cheers.

2005 TSX iPod Integration How-To

If you own a 2004-2005 TSX, you are aware that the auxiliary input wasn't added until '06. That's fine, because there's a better solution to listening to your iPod/iPone than an AUX port that can't even charge it. After reading many reviews, I decided on the Dice Electronics i-Honda-R4. If you have an '04 model without Navi, you can save the $20 and get the R3. The only difference is that the R4 has the ability to retain XM/Navi, which is originally plugged into the device port on the stereo. The install is insanely simple and takes about 5 minutes. Of course, read the Dice manual and set up the device prior to installation time. This will help ensure a speedy install.

Tools Required: None

Difficulty: Easy

Installation How-to:

1. Place both hands in the upper storage bin and press firmly on the inner-sidewalls pulling out and up. The bin should pop right out.
   


2. Carefully put your hand inside the opening and feel the bottom of the stereo. There is only one plug and it is very accessible.
   
   
3. There is a small locking lever facing towards you. Carefully unplug the connector.
   


4. Plug the connector into the female end of the Dice harness and plug the male end of the Dice harness into the stereo.
   


5. Connect everything to the Dice device and neatly tuck it away. Verify that everything is working the way it should.
   
   
6. Determine where you want the iPod cable to run. I chose to run it through the passenger side of the center console. Of course, it can go pretty much anywhere considering the length of cable they give you.
   
   


7. Put the storage bin back in, make sure it snaps securely in place. That's it!
   
   
   UPDATE: After using this for a few months, I decided I wanted a cleaner look to the install. That is, I wanted the iPod cable to be out of sight. So, I popped the center console out (see Mugen SS install instructions) and ran the iPod cable to the left of the shifter mechanism following the yellow wire (see Mugen SS photos) and securing it with wire ties. Inside the console cubby (armrest) there is a 12V DC socket. If you lift up the rubber pad on the bottom of the cubby, you expose a single philips screw. Remove the screw and unplug the 12V socket and remove the socket and plastic housing. Just below the socket on the left edge of the housing, I drilled a hole large enough to pass the iPod cable through. I then clipped the iPod cable into the hooks on the underside of the armrest and ran the cable up through the hole to the top shelf, where I like to set my iPod. Since the cubby is designed so well, you can close it while the cable is out, making changing songs by hand simple. When done changing songs, I place it back in the cubby. Super clean and out of sight!
   
   
   
   
   
   

About My Blog

Many of us have spent countless hours parsing the internet for obscure information regarding "how-to" fix this or modify that, or simply what product(s) others prefer. This blog is aimed to be a small archive of potentially useful knowledge that I have acquired over the years, regarding everyday things like cars and fashion. I will mostly post reviews and how-to's as they become available.