'04-'08 TSX Useful Maintenance Info

• Brake Fluid: Honda/Acura DOT3 p/n 08798-9008A
• Manual Transmission Fluid: Honda/Acura p/n 08798-9031A (2.1qt)
• Engine Oil: Mobil1 Extended Performance Synthetic 5w-30 (~4.6qt w/filter change)
• Oil Filter: Mobil1 M1-110 or Honda/Acura p/n 15400-PLM-A02
• Oil drain plug washer: 94109-14000
• Door Seal, Sunroof, RSB rubber grease: Shin-Etsu silicone grease p/n 08798-9013
• Brake slider grease: Honda silicone grease 08C30-B0234M (acura service substitutes super hi temp urea grease p/n 08798-9002)
• Mainshaft splines and clutch pivots: Honda super hi temp urea grease p/n 08798-9002)
• Pollen filter: Acura p/n 80292-SEC-A01 or Bosch particulate cabin filter p/n P3875
• Air filter: '04-'05 Acura p/n 17220-RAA-A00, '06-'08 Acura p/n 17220-RBB-A00

'04-'08 TSX Mugen Short Shifter How-To

The Mugen Short Shifter is great for anybody wanting a shorter more precise gear change with excellent feedback. In my opinion, it also moves the shift knob to the appropriate height for your hand when relaxing on the armrest, taking pressure off your elbow. The full assembly was purchased from King Motorsports (the ONLY authorized Mugen retailer in the US) for $270. It was in stock so I had it in-hand only 3 days after purchasing. The side-by-side comparison picture is helpful. First, you can see that the Mugen shifter has about 1" shorter top shaft length. Second, the linkage lever on the side is slightly longer and has a beefier spring on it. Lastly, you can see the mounts are solid instead of rubber.

Initial impression: Extremely high quality part that exhibits attention to detail. They even included a new linkage shim and cotter pin. No need to go to Honda to replace these gnarled parts.

Tools required: Channel-lock pliers, needle-nose pliers, flat-head screwdriver, #1 phillips screwdriver, 3/8” driver, 6” extension, 10mm socket

Difficulty: Hard

Installation:

1. Remove the console. This can be rather difficult since it is held in by clips. Starting at the back of the console by the e-brake and working your way forward works well. If you move the leather e-brake hole cover aside, you can see the bottom of the first clip. Using a flat head screwdriver, you can press the clip up while pulling up on the console. A quick bursting pull released both of the rear clips for me. Carefully work your way forward prying along the sides. Each side has two clips and the front has two clips totaling 8. Once all the clips are up and the console is loose, unplug the seat-heater switches and remove the shift-knob. The console is totally detached and should be set aside taking care not to scratch it.
   
   
   

2. Remove the cubby, as seen in my how-to regarding the iPod integration kit, and set it aside. This exposes the self-tapping screws to remove the “not an ashtray” coin cubby. Remove the screws and the coin cubby and set it aside. You don’t need to remove the amplifier but I took the screws out and pushed the amp aside to give me more room to work on the shift linkage.
   
   
   
   

3. Remove the shift linkage. The linkage on the side is attached to the lever via a cotter pin. Remove the cotter pin and the linkage cable. Hang on to the washer and note its orientation as it has a low-friction coating on one side. Detaching the linkage from the assembly is simple. The big black retaining unit at the front requires a ¼ twist counter-clockwise to release it from the assembly. I found a small crescent wrench helped out a lot to rotate the linkage since it is very tight for hands. The other linkage cable is attached to the actual gear lever underneath the assembly. There are access holes to fit your hands to detach it. It is only secured by a small spring-loaded wire. Carefully pry open the wire ends (facing the rear of the car) and the cable should drop right off the lever. Detaching the linkage from the assembly is quite possibly the hardest part. The spring shim just needs to be pulled straight up and the linkage is detached. This shim is on there TIGHT. This is where I used the channel-lock pliers. After pulling for about 20 minutes it came off. I have no pointers for you other than to pull and wiggle until it pops off.
   
   
   
   

4. Remove the four mounting bolts that hold the assembly in place. The assembly should now be free to move except for the wire harnesses that are attached to it. Be careful with these harnesses. The one with yellow tape has to do with the SRS. You can release the wire-stays from the assembly by pinching them from underneath the shifter assembly. This is a major pain and will cut your hands up if you’re not careful.
   
   
   
   

5. Remove the assembly. This thing fits in there so perfectly, it is nearly impossible to remove it without removing the entire center console sides. I managed to twist it just right and pull on it until it popped out. Be cautious to avoid destroying the console plastic.
   
   

6. Install the Mugen assembly in reverse order. The install is MUCH faster than taking the stock assembly out. Test that everything is operational before you put it all back together. Voila!

This install is not for anyone new to tearing apart cars or anyone expecting a smooth 1 hour install. This took me around 2-3 hours start to finish, knowing exactly what I was doing. It was TOTALLY worth it though. This is a solid upgrade that makes me grin every time I need to shift (which is often for a 6MT in Boston).